The SJS SYSTEM from EMSEAL can be installed in several ways as selected by
the designer or owner:r:
on top of concrete deck (no recess, no blockout).
on top of EMSEAL elastomeric nosing material in blockouts on each side of
Recessed on top
of EMSEAL elastomeric nosing material in blockouts on each side of the
These installation instructions will discuss the installation of the SJS
SYSTEM assuming that all concrete prep and blockout work including the
placement of the EMSEAL elastomeric nosing has already been done.
Sections at the end of these installations provide tips on concrete
preparation, spall repair using EMSEAL’s elastomeric nosing, leveling of the
deck surfaces etc.
is important that you and all members of your crew read and understand this
entire installation manual before proceeding with installation.
and TERMINATION OPTIONS and INSTALLATION
with any expansion joint system, there are many options for treating the way
joints end, transition to other joint system, and are installed at jogs,
turns, changes in plane, etc. in the deck.
is critical to ensuring watertightness that these conditions be addressed in
accordance with details provided by the designer and based on EMSEAL
approved details and installation methods. Termination and transition
details must be disclosed to EMSEAL at time of material ordering so that
they can be accommodated in special transition pieces of the SJS SYSTEM to
These installation instructions will cover the installation of the SJS
SYSTEM in straight runs with reference to generic termination, starting and
section at the end of the general instructions will provide tips for
installing some transitions. In addition to the general guidelines offered
in this document, the job on-site instruction of an EMSEAL field technician
should be relied upon for proper execution of job specific termination and
STANDARD SYSTEM COMPONENTS
SJS System as
supplied—precompressed, shrink-wrapped, with spline pins and
installation hanger bars.
installed with EMSEAL elastomeric nosing material in blockouts on
each side of joint gap.
EQUIPMENT LIST for INSTALLATION of SJS-SEISMIC JOINT SYSTEM from EMSEAL
(In addition to normal tools of the trade and safety equipment as required
by the installing contractors’ internal safety program and in compliance
with local, state and federal safety requirements, the following material
and equipment must be on-site before the EMSEAL Technician arrives or before
installation can begin):
Preparing Concrete and Grinding Concrete & Nosing Material
* Diamond cup
blade(s) for concrete
blade(s) for metal
* “Zek” wheel
pads or 20-grit sanding disks for abrading EMSEAL elastomeric nosing
Nosing Material and/or for Spall Repair
Styrofoam extruded polystyrene cut into 6-inch wide strips. (Total
quantity 2-times the joint length)
* 2-inch Duct
Tape (Total quantity 3-times the joint length) for wrapping the
Styrofoam to aide release from nosing material
paper” building felt to mask joint edges (Total quantity 2-times the
For Cutting and
cutting blades for sawz all
(“3-in-1” or equal)
Drill--sizes 3/8” Drill (for drilling new coverplate holes if
hand-held metal (fine-toothed) file (for removing metal burrs after
and Tooling Liquid Joining Silicone and Sealant Bands from Sausages
* Bulk caulk
guns to hold 20-oz silicone sausages
and Spreading Epoxy Adhesive
* heavy duty
electric, plug-in, drill for mixing thick epoxy
* new, clean,
paddles, “jiffy mixers”, for use in electric drill
* minimum 6
ea - 1 ½-inch wide by min. 8-inch long margin trowels
* Clean or
unused plaster/paint pails to mix epoxy, hold cleaning solvents,
& Installing, Screws in Hanger Bars and Coverplate
electric Drill-Driver(s)--to remove and reinstall stainless steel
screws. Drill-Drivers instead of drills are required to help
prevent over-tightening the screws
* minimum 6
ea – 7/32-inch hex bit socket drill drivers (3/8-inch drive)
socket adapters (for use in drills)
hammer (3-pound) to tap end of spline to set spline pins at opposite
end of stick)
handled 3/8-inch socket with adapter to accept #3 screw-gun tip.
Note: torque wrench must accurately read as low as 60 in-lbs (5.2
ft-lbs; 7 Nm) and as much as 240 in-lbs (20 ft-lbs; 27 Nm) – (for
final torque setting on capping strip and cover plate screw).
Miscellaneous Tools and Materials
2-foot, 4-foot, and torpedo-level
* 1 box of
lumber crayons (to mark high spots for grinding)
* chalk box
* flat bar
and small pry bar
* pail of
cleaning solvent (Toluene or equal) (depending on the size of the
job, less toluene may be adequate)
* box of
clean, dry, lint-free, 100% cotton cloth (not paper) rags
* shop vac
or reliable electrical source
high-pressure blowers to clear debris
STORAGE and HANDLING:
(NOTE: The precompressed foam in the SJS system will expand faster
when hot and slower when cold.
On hot days
Above 60°F (15°C):
material in its cardboard shipping cartons, out of direct sunlight
(preferably on an intermediate, shaded deck. If no shade is
available on a really hot day, keep the material inside an
air-conditioned job van, or open the lids of the shipping cartons
and lay bags of ice over the material. This will give you more
On cold days
Below 41°F (5°C):
If it is
sunny out, open the cartons and set the material in the sun. Or,
keep the material in a heated job-van until immediately prior to
Use grinders to remove all bumps, and protrusions of concrete from
· Remove loose
particles and weak concrete to ensure sound concrete substrate.
Spalls, chipped edges and uneven surfaces must be repaired using
suitable patching material and proper patching geometry and
techniques. Joint faces must be parallel. Joints must have
unobstructed depth greater than or equal to the full depth of the
largest material supplied plus 1/2-inch (6mm).
· Remove all
contaminants by sandblasting or grinding to ensure a thoroughly
clean and sound substrate for the full sealant depth. NOTE: DO NOT
use a wire wheel--this will polish the substrate and cause
· Dry all wet
surfaces. NOTE: If a flame is used to dry substrates this will
leave carbon on the substrate and cause bond-failure. Grind and
clean the surfaces to remove carbon.
· Wipe joint
faces with solvent-dampened, lint-free rags to remove all concrete
dust and contaminants.
· Sandblast or grind to rough, white metal and solvent-wipe
immediately prior to applying SJS epoxy.
Ensure that no oxidation (rusting) occurs before the epoxy is
Prep and repair any spalls at the joint edge and at the back edges
of the blockout with appropriate repair material and repair
of spalls is best done using EMSEAL elastomeric nosing material.
This material is flowable, self-leveling, and fast curing. If your
project is to use the installation option that involves installing a
nosing material as a low-friction, sound reducing, support for the
cover plate of the SJS, then spalls can be repaired in a single step
along with filling the blockout—see “Installing Nosing Material”
section, Page 10.)
Using wire brushes, blowers, and solvent wiping, remove all dust and
debris from joint faces.
step is critical to ensure that the epoxy adhesive bonds properly to
the joint faces. Any dust or debris left on the substrates could
cause a bond failure).
Ensure deck heights are the same across joint-gap and that there are
no obstructions to the free movement of the cover plate.
coverplate sections across the joint opening. Remember that the
joint will close during summer heating. This means that when
closed, the cover plate must be free to slide on both sides of the
centerline of the joint opening. Any cured lumps, lips, overpours
of concrete, will prevent free movement. Grind these off using
diamond cup grinders).
Ensure deck is even and flat along its length on both sides of the
are supplied in standard 5-foot lengths. In order to be fully
supported and to prevent rocking, the deck or nosing surface must be
level across the joint for the full length of each plate.
achieved by laying out the cover plates over the joint opening along
the entire length of the joint. Then by putting pressure on one
edge of a plate, push down on the opposite side. If the plate rocks,
identify where the high spot(s) are under the plate. Lift the plate
and mark these spots using a lumber crayon. Use a grinder and ‘zek’
wheel or 20-grit sanding disk to remove the high spot(s). Place the
cover plate back over the location and repeat the process until the
plate lies flat and no rocking can be produced.
leveling process is easily achieved when the EMSEAL elastomeric
nosing is used. If installed directly onto concrete, this process
will require you to grind the concrete using diamond cup grinders).
Mix one kit of epoxy adhesive and apply a thin coat (no more than
1/16” thick) to both joint faces to a depth of 4-inches (100mm)—be
sure to extend epoxy between parapet or split column faces of
transitions to upturns.
· EMSEAL epoxy
adhesive may be used in the 41°F (5°C) to 95°F (35°C) temperature
· Using a
trowel, transfer the entire contents of Part B (hardener) into the
contents of Part A (base).
· Mix the
material thoroughly with a drill and mixing paddle. Scrape the
walls and bottom of the container to ensure uniform and complete
· Always mix
component B (hardener) into component A (base).
· Ensure that
a uniform gray color with no black or white streaks is obtained.
DO NOT thin the epoxy.
Ensure that the mixed epoxy adhesive is applied to the substrate
before the pot life has expired (10 - 30 minutes depending on the
Epoxy will harden more quickly when left in the pot--get it onto the
joint face as soon as possible.
The epoxy must still be uncured when installing the SJS into the
If the epoxy
cures before installing the SJS then reapply new epoxy. If work is
interrupted for more than 2 hours after initial cure then grind the
old epoxy and apply new wet epoxy.
you may use a bulk gun to draw up and apply epoxy to the joint faces
and to the side of the foam before spreading it with the margin
While one or more workers are applying epoxy to the joint faces,
others must prepare the SJS assemblies.
Prepare a “starter piece” of SJS, to suit the transition or
termination detail suitable to the joint as agreed in discussion
with EMSEAL and EMSEAL field technician.
pieces and end pieces are custom configured based on the needs of
the particular installation. Usually they have and end where the
center spline stops short and the last six to eight inches is foam
only. This allows you to trim, notch and bend, or miter the foam to
suit termination requirements.
Open SJS system “starter piece” by cutting shrink-wrap by running a
utility knife along the hardboard sides.
discard shrink-wrap and hardboard. (DO NOT cut along silicone
Work quickly and deliberately after cutting the shrink-wrap to avoid
material expanding beyond a usable size.
Using margin trowels apply a “scrape” of epoxy onto both outer faces
of the foam.
Allow foam to expand to the width (or slightly greater) of the joint
opening so that when lowered it fits snugly into the wet epoxy on
the joint faces and does not sag below the lip of the blockout
Rotate joint hanger bars to hold the joint assembly in place
NOTE: If needed
on larger joints, center the joint assembly in the joint by
installing hanger screws into the outer holes in the joint hangers
and rotate the hangers so the hanger screws wedge against the joint
Using a sausage caulk gun, nozzle, and the silicone sausages supplied,
apply a thick (1/8”) bead of liquid silicone to the face of the
spline and onto the foam along and ½” (12mm) below the silicone
Unpack next material assembly, apply epoxy to the foam faces, and
lower it into the joint sliding it up to align with the already
Make sure the
chamfered end of the joining pin sits in the channel of the
previously installed spline.
Ensure the splines of each length are snugged up against each
(NOTE: Some of the silicone tooled to the face should squeeze out
between the bellows faces).
the spline pin did not seat all the way in step 13, using a 3-pound
hammer, tap the end of the spline away from the join to ensure that
the spline-pin is driven all the way into the previously installed
(Note: liquid silicone should squeeze up out of the join).
Using a caulk knife, tool the joining silicone into and across the
use the caulk gun to apply additional silicone to the join between
the two lengths and tool excess from surface and between wrinkles of
Repeat process until all lengths of joint assembly have been
Using lint-free cotton rags and solvent clean the silicone bellows
next to the joint faces to receive the silicone sealant bands and
Using the same procedure as with the “starter piece”, cut the
“closing piece” to length by trimming the foam-only end. Address
the transition or termination of the end of the joint as agreed in
consultation with EMSEAL.
Using the bulk gun and sausages provided, inject silicone sealant
bands between the foam, silicone bellows, and joint faces.
Inject a deep (minimum ¾” (20mm)) band of liquid silicone.
(NOTE: Rotate hanger bars as you go so you can install a continuous
corner band of silicone).
IMPORTANT: On installations of long runs of material, have one
worker drop back after the installation of the first 2-3 lengths to
follow along and carry out step 17 and 19.
Using a caulk knife, tool the silicone into a corner bead between
the top of the silicone bellows and the joint face.
Starting at one end of the joint, remove the first one or two
hangers to make room to install the first section of coverplate.
Lay out cover plates next to the joint to identify starting and
finishing plates (these are usually shorter than the standard
Place the first section of coverplate over the joint assembly and
line up the screw holes over the channel in the spline.
Using a drill-driver and 7/32” hex bit socket, drive the coverplate
screws into the spline channel until tight.
Ensure that the
spline is drawn up snugly against the underside of the coverplate.
If necessary, use a hand socket wrench and handle extension to do
the final tightening.
Driving the cover plate screws requires a lot of torque. Be sure
to have a firm grip on a supporting handle on the drill driver. Be
sure to brace the drill as needed to prevent it from spinning and
Remove next joint hanger(s) as needed and install coverplate
sections until installation is complete with the installation of the
final finishing cover plate.
Manually tighten coverplate screws to final torque
It is critical that the top of the spline be pulled up tight to the
underside of the coverplates.
To achieve this, you must use a torque wrench and tighten each screw
to 240 in-lbs (20 ft-lbs; 27Nm).
IMPORTANT: Fully and firmly insert the hex driver into the screw. If
you don’t you will strip the screw head.
TIPS for working with EMSEAL Nosing Material
Styrofoam form strips with duct tape to make removal easier
a Styrofoam form against each joint face and insert Styrofoam wedges
blockouts and spalls with EMSEAL-supplied primer
nosing material in accordance with on-site instructions from an
EMSEAL field technician.
material into blockouts to level with bottom of concrete chamfer or
to within 3/8-inch from deck surface. Use nosing material to ensure
blockouts are level from one side of the joint to the other. Use
nosing material in this step to ensure blockouts are level along
be filled flush to the deck or recessed by the thickness of the
cover plate supplied.
for transitioning SJS to COLORSEAL in parapets, split columns, and wall
on-site instructions of an EMSEAL field technician for the proper execution
of all transitions and terminations.
foam-only end between the faces of the parapet walls or split columns into
the wet epoxy being sure to push it in to the depth of the vertical foam to
join it from the vertical plane.
Site Fabricate Transitions and/or Connect Factory-Fabricated Transitions
If the system contains special pieces or transitions such as tees or right
angles, these must be site-measured, cut and fabricated (or connected if
factory-fabricated) at this stage to complete the system.
NOTE: If starting at a
transition (Upturn, Flat 90o etc) join the first full length to
the already installed transition piece.